Eight Ways the French Have Us Beat at the Restaurant Table
I’m not even talking about the food. Rather, it’s the small niceties that make all the difference.
When I’m covering the dining scene stateside (as I am for the time being), it’s hard not to think about what I miss about French food and dining. Curiously, I find it’s not so much the food itself, as we do have admirable restaurant cuisine in America.
Instead, what I miss most are just so many of the niceties that make the French drinking and dining so joyful. They are all small details, and yet I miss them dearly. Here are eight things that come top of mind.
1. The Snack with the Drink
No matter how modest the cafe or restaurant, most everywhere you order a drink, they bring you a little snack to go alongside. Not to be confused with the amuse-bouche found in high-end restaurants, this nibble is usually something quite simple. You see, the French understand that drinking on an empty stomach isn’t a good idea. But they also don't expect you to order a huge appetizer that will (ironically) ruin your appetite for dinner. This little touch is everywhere, in the simplest of spots. And it’s just so gracious.
2. The Little Snack with the Coffee
Ditto the little cookie you usually get with your coffee. Here’s a chocolate Madeleine that helps keeps that strong coffee from burning a hole in your stomach. It’s so thoughtful! (P.S.: The coffee pictured is “une noisette”: espresso with a little touch of milk.)
3. The 50-cl Bottle of Wine
Restaurants serve full-size bottles of wine, to be sure. But they also offer 50-cl bottles (which is three-fourths of a regular bottle). It’s perfect for two people, especially when said two people have started with an apéritif. (A bottle, at this point, is too much; a half-bottle is not enough. Three-fourths of a bottle is brilliant).
4. Service Compris!
Tax and service are included on restaurant bills. There are so many reasons why I like this system—too many to go into here. First and foremost, it means that servers earn a living wage that does not rely on the whims of customers who tip varying amounts. For the diner it means that the price you see on the menu is the price you pay, including tax as well as service.
5. The Price of Wine in France
In the above photo, two kirs (white wine with crème de cassis in one and liqueur de pêche in the other) cost 7 Euros and change (about $8), tax and tip included. Most wines cost around 5 euros a glass; the most I ever spent was 8 euros (tax and tip included), but that was a premium Bordeaux splurge. Recently, here in the Midwestern U.S.A., at a casual bar, we recently spent $20 each for a glass of wine, after tax and tip. That’s $40 for two glasses of wine. The above photo was taken on the Riviera. Why are wine prices so high here? It certainly can’t be the real estate!
6. Espresso Served in—Wait for It—an Espresso Cup
I have no idea why large coffeehouse chains in the U.S. (I’m talkin’ to you, Starbucks) serve shots of espresso in cups (often paper) meant to hold larger drinks. It cools down the drink way too fast. Yes—in larger U.S. cities, you can find coffeehouses that serve espresso as it should be served, in a tiny cup. But here in flyover country, it’s an exception, not the rule.
7. Right-Size Portions
Stateside, I grow weary of appetizers—from charcuterie plates to calamari— sized to serve everyone at the table. And supersized desserts, set in the middle of the table for everyone to jab at with a fork. I appreciate the way in France, you can get four courses perfectly sized to make one diner feel fabulous (not filled with regret) when walking out the door.
8. The After-Dinner Stroll
Sadly, some of the best restaurants where I live in Amerique Profonde are nowhere near anyplace you’d like to stroll around afterwards. Basically, you drive there and drive home. And even though my own home is near a beautiful park, it’s not the kind of park where you see people strolling around after dinner. I miss the civic beauty and street-life that makes the after-dinner stroll so fascinating in France.
Don’t Get Me Wrong
All this said, I love my city and community here in Amerique Profonde (deep America). And it’s really nice to live somewhere where you don't have to worry about what’s closed because of the latest strike (gas stations? ATMs?). Plus, when you go to restaurant, if something goes wrong, they’ll try to fix it. Not always so in you-know-where—as I discussed in a recent post.
Still, it’s hard not to long for a few other great things à table that are now all too distant...
Tell me, mes amis. What are you missing?
Charming for sure. Strolls and a Mid-sized bottle of wine! Perfect. Thanks for this column
I love these,Wini. I would like to see most all of these here. I especially like the little bites served with drinks. Many times all I want is just a bite. Which brings me to portion sizes....sigh.