How to Spend the Perfect Day in the South of France
When you're ready to toss the guidebook and go deeper.
Yes, you can do this! As always, I show you how to do France “my way”—deeply, affordably, and filled with joy and surprise at every turn. If you like this kind of honest and doable, down-to-earth guidance, please become a subscriber.
Recently, a subscriber asked me if her friends could hire me to lead their little group in the South of France. What an honor to be asked! But honestly, you don’t need a guide to show you how to do it. Spend one (virtual) day with me, and you’ll know exactly how to do France in the best possible way …
When I tell people I long stretches in the South of France each summer—and that I tend to stay in one place—they ask, “What do you do all day?”
It’s a reasonable question. While we’ve traveled extensively throughout France, my greatest joys have been found in returning to the same town year after year. First, it was Beaulieu-sur-Mer, then Collioure, and more recently, Menton. Certainly, in each place, we’ve seen a few of the nearby sights, climbed up to a castle or ruin or two. We’ve taken in the requisite views. But what I’ve come to love is not covering a lot of ground, but rather sinking into a place, letting its rhythms shape my days, discovering what reveals itself only with time.
For me, it’s all about being part of “the daily life.”
I’ve been renting small, inexpensive apartments in France since 1995—long before VRBO made it seamless. (I could tell you stories about those pre-VRBO years, when securing a rental involved more faith than guarantees.)
So what do we do all day? We toss the guidebook. We sniff melons for ripeness at the morning market; we head to the butcher to see what calls our name. We linger over the International New York Times and a coffee at the café where we’ve become familiar faces; we watch the sea change with the day’s ever-shifting light. We swim, we dine, we nap, we stroll. It’s a practice in attention, a devotion to daily pleasures—joy maintenance at every turn.
It’s a practice in attention, a devotion to daily pleasures—joy maintenance at every turn.
It’s the easiest and most gratifying way to travel in France. And anyone can do it. Here’s how let your days unfold—loose, unhurried, and always subject to change.
Breakfast and the Daily Bread
Every morning, walk to the boulangerie for croissants (or pain au raisin, or pain au chocolat). Get your daily baguette—some for breakfast, the rest for later meals. Sometimes, a demi-baguette is enough (just ask, and they’ll slice one in half for you).
Back home, enjoy the French Breakfast of Champions: croissant or tartine, juice, and café au lait. No breakfast in the world ever makes me feel better.
And if the night before involved a few glasses of wine—a shocking thing in France, I know—this breakfast will set you right. Here’s why:
Café au Lait: A near 50-50 mix of strong, dark drip coffee and milk, with sugar if you like. The coffee revives, the milk soothes and adds heft to sate hunger.
Croissant or Tartine (or both): Buttery croissant or a slice of baguette slathered with butter and jam—the French tartine. A little fat, a little sugar, and just enough substance to steady you for the day ahead
Tip: Morning is also a great time to do whatever you do in your creative life: write, journal, sketch, photograph .... I always spend an hour or two writing every day—in the morning and in the late afternoon.
Morning Market, Café, and a Slow Read
Time for the morning shopping; in most towns where I stay, there’s a market at least twice a week. In Menton, there’s a gorgeous market open every day except Sunday.
Get what you need for lunch and dinner. And remember—fridges in French rentals are often small, so shopping every day is not only a joy, but a necessity. It’s easy to cook simple-but-sublime meals in France with just two burners and a fridge. (I’m working on a post on what to cook in a tiny French kitchen—stay tuned!).
After you’ve procured, par exemple, charcuterie and salads (for lunch) and veal chops, new potatoes, startlingly fresh greens, and local cheeses (for dinner), stop by the maison de press for the International New York Times. Then, it’s off to your favorite café’s terrace for a sip of something—for me, a cool, sparkly mineral water—and a slow read.
I love this newspaper: all the sharp reporting of The New York Times in a compact edition. Still, it takes me ages to get through it. After all, there’s people-watching, daydreaming, and the sound of leaves rustling in the plane trees—distractions worth lingering over.
Tip: You’ll see plenty of people unwinding with a refreshing midmorning beer, their farmers’ market haul resting at their feet. Tap into that idea, and you’ll really be living like a local.
Time for a Swim!
Just as your caffeine buzz begins to fade, make your way to the sea for a reviving dip. The Mediterranean coastline may be rocky, but you’ll hardly mind once you’re in. The water is always cool and impossibly clear, and I’ve never felt anything but sheer delight plunging into that glistening blue on a hot day. Every time I slip beneath its surface, it feels new again—like the very first time
Tip: Not fond of pebbly beaches? Just buy some swim shoes, readily available at shops in town.
What’s for Lunch?
Of course, because you’ve bought everything fresh just that day, the food is going look and taste great and make you feel utterly amazing. Charcuterie, salads, artisan cheeses, roasted free-range chicken, local produce. Cook if you wish, but you really don’t have to. (I generally do my cooking in the evening, but even then, I keep it simple.)
Time for a Café Express
As the weight of lunch settles in, slip into your favorite café or a shady sidewalk terrasse for a quick espresso. Often, it’ll come with a bite of chocolate—a little pick-me-up all its own. Then, just like that, the caffeine—combined with the joy of being in a beautiful place in the world—works its magic, and you’re ready to go again.
Afternoon As You Like It
Simply do whatever it is you wish to do in the afternoon—a nearby hike, another swim, a little poking around, something creative. Perhaps go to the pastry shop to snag a dessert for dinner. Or just take a delicious nap, with the windows open to the fresh air and the sounds of the street-life below—always muted in the early afternoon.
Suddenly, It’s France O’Clock … Then Time for Dinner
Oh, will you look at the time? It’s l’heure d’apéritif, and perhaps my favorite time of the day. Remember: the cocktail hour isn’t dinner—just a few nibbles and a small drink will do.
What’s for dinner? I always keep it simple, often turning to a few of my “sauté, deglaze, serve” kinds of recipes. (Sauté the meat in a pan, deglaze the pan with wine and a few stir-ins for sauce, and serve.) French cooking at its 20-minute best. (I have a whole chapter of these recipes in my French cookbook, but I’ll also be posting quite a few ideas as I grow this site.)
After dinner, take a final stroll by the sea, letting the last light fade as you walk, and just see where your mind wanders.
Sleep the kind of sleep you only get when when your day has been filled with sun, salt, and simple, everyday joys.
Wake up, get your daily bread, and let France unfold for you once again.
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This read felt like I was there, with you, flâner-ing, sipping, dipping, and writing. Beautiful post about, yet another, beautiful French spot in the South of France. Bisous! xx
This sounds like how the French used to vacation, and many still do. I live here and feel like I need this type of holiday immediately! You might want to buy locally made jam though -- there are plenty available!