Six Ways to Host like the French: Take Shortcuts. Take It Easy. And More.

A French friend's way of entertaining has become my way of entertaining.

After our first few visits to Collioure, Martine, our landlady there, became a friend. Each stay would start with her welcoming us to our apartment in the midafternoon. Then, we’d all head out for a drink together, usually to a little tapas spot where we’d sip wine, share some nibbles, and catch up on everything since we last met.

Dave and Martine—sharing a drink and a laugh.

Sometime during our stay, Martine would invite us to dinner at her home in the nearby town of Le Boulou. Not only was it one of the meals I looked forward to the most all summer, but I just loved the way she entertained—in fact, her style of gathering friends for a meal has become my own style of gathering friends for a meal, too.

Here’s an overview of things I gleaned during Mes Nuits Chez Martine (My Nights at Martine’s) in summers past. Each can offer a takeaway for your own entertaining.

1. Stop Sweating the Appetizers

The apéritif hour in Martine’s garden.

I’ve written much on the art of the apéritif, but it all boils down to this: too often, we Americans overthink those welcome drinks and nibbles. Martine always keeps it so simple—yet so pleasurable. She usually serves a little charcuterie (sometimes just placed on a cutting board in serve-yourself fashion), and maybe another nibble or two—in the above case, some French Fritos-like corn chips (which were, of course, better than Fritos) and some market-fresh cherry tomatoes. And wine.

2. Press Your Friends into Service

That’s Dave, cutting up the charcuterie. Tough duty, but the lovely rosé wine helped.

Another night, Martine got all fancy on us and actually served the charcuterie sliced. But she pressed Dave into slicing it for us, while she attended to other things. He was happy to do so, of course, especially with a lovely South of France rosé in the picture.

The point is, you don’t have to hustle to have everything ready the minute guests arrive. Just have a plan. In this case, she had two lovely Catalan spreads, French prosciutto, and a Catalan sausage ready to arrange as other guests streamed in.

P.S.: Potato chips count. It seems Martine always has a salty snack with the rest of the spread, and I’m especially happy when she’s put out a few Catalan potato chips, which I used to think were the best in the world. Then I went to Ireland, and now Catalan chips come in a close second.

But here’s the key. Don’t set out an entire bag—this smallish bowl was meant for four of us. Offer just a few nibbles just to go with that first drink.

3. Make-Ahead, People. Make-Ahead!

Gazpacho, made in advance. Think of all the first-course soups you could make in advance, from my Puréed Roast Vegetable Soup in autumn, to a lovely potato-leek soup in winter.

For most years of my visits, Martine was working two jobs—a full time job and a side-hustle managing her rental apartments. She certainly did not have time to cook all day.

Often, she would make a dish a day ahead of time. One lovely midsummer night, she made this beautiful gazpacho—Catalan style, with loads of garlic. I imagine she had also chopped the garnishes and had them ready in advance. Chill, shake, pour, serve.

4. A Few Ready-Mades are A-OK

That’s Martine, pouring the ready-made broth (picked up from a local fishmonger) into her paella.

Martine made the best paella I’ve ever had in my life. But wait! Isn’t paella Spanish? What’s a Frenchwoman know about it?

Well, to be exact, paella is a Catalan dish, and Collioure is part of the region that was historically Catalonia. In fact, the area is called French Catalonia or Pays Catalan (Catalan country). You’ll find lovely paella here.

And no, I’m afraid you can’t have the recipe for Martine’s paella. That’s because she makes it with a fish stock she picks up from a local fish market. The lucky French have all kinds of shortcuts like this—from beautiful meringues from a local baker to a terrific aioli from the local traiteur (deli).

But you know what? These days, if you live in a city of any size, you may well have worthy shortcut ingredients available as well‚ from local micro-bakers who will sell their handcrafted pie-crusts, to gourmet shops that offer a bone broth that are perfect for your next company-worthy braise.

5. A Cheese Course Brings Many Accolades with Hardy Any Work

Cheese courses make you look fantastic. This was what Martine served.

I’ve never dined in a French home and not had a cheese course. It’s simply part of the meal when entertaining (and Martine often has it with her family even when she’s not hosting). And please, don’t complicate this course. Put out cheeses you love and some bread, and be done with it. If you truly want some guidelines, just remember that a mix is great: above is a blue, a sheep’s milk, a hard-aged mimolette (if memory serves), and a soft and beautiful, smelly-in-a-good-way washed rind cheese. Wine? Whatever’s left from the main course will be fine, though I generally prefer red.

6. And No, You Don’t Have to Bake

What? Häagen-Dazs? Yes. Martine served their Tiramisu flavor, and it was divine and perfect after the robust paella.

I think that Martine and I have only had a fierce argument once in our lives. That was when I casually wondered aloud if French women really ever bake at all. Truly, I've never had a home-baked dessert in any French home. Ever.

Of course, Martine swears that French women bake all the time. However, she has never offered concrete evidence for her argument But who could blame her? There are pastry shops in every small town and on nearly every block of large cities. And gourmet ice cream options all over the place. After such a lovely and filling summer meal, I couldn’t imagine anything better than a great ice cream treat. Which happened to be Häagen-Dazs. (French Häagen-Dazs, mind you.)

These days in the U.S., there are gourmet ice cream shops and micro-bakers/pastry-makers in nearly any city of any size. Take advantage. Of course, if you or one of your guests absolutely love to bake, then go ahead and knock yourself out. (But frankly, knocking yourself out wouldn’t be very French.)

The Takeaway

A thoroughly candid photo of la belle Martine. Alas, I look nowhere near this glamorous when I’m hawking the stove at home.

Martine treated us to a fabulous meal rife with local flavors (well, except for the ice cream)—and she only had to cook one thing that day (the paella). Any wonder why I love the way the French entertain?